Skip to content

Article: W Piping's in Frame

W PIPING'S IN FRAME

W Piping's in Frame

This is a never-ending story about pockets.



Even though pockets are simply called pockets, they can be made in a variety of ways, so this time I'll focus on the "double bead zip type", which is one of the "bead pockets" often used on leather jackets and is also my favorite. Masu.

Kadoya, a specialized manufacturer of leather jackets
The piping-like part that covers the ZIPPER is the "ball".
There are beads on both sides of the picture frame, so it is called ``both beads''.

When you want to make a pocket opening on a single piece of leather, you have to make a quick cut with a knife, but by adding six more steps to it, you can create both bead edges.
Why is it necessary to make such a feature in a place where it would function fine just by cutting it in?

Originally, this tailoring was a detail used for fabric clothing.
You can imagine that the fabric cut with scissors will unravel and eventually return to thread.
That wasn't very good, so we had to come up with a way to do it, and so a beaded edge was created.
Then, the tailors who learned this technique later started working with leather, and it was applied directly to the leather, passed down, passed down, and became established.


That's right. This tailoring can be said to be useless on leather.

In fact, cut-out pockets are used in the back pockets of BLACK STAR 's PAD bag HFG WAIST BAG .

This specification, which is finished thin and flat, is an ideal structure that takes advantage of the characteristics of leather and is streamlined, smart, and understated.

Now, what is the significance of the existence of both balls?
By creating a picture frame, an appropriate thickness and height difference are created around the ZIP, which protects the metal ZIP, which is easily damaged. There are functional advantages, such as a rounded and elastic ball that feels better to the touch than a raw leather cross section, but at the same time, there is also a sculptural appeal.
The shadows created by the unique unevenness of leather, and the flickering of metal lurking in the depths, are similar to the cooling fins of an air-cooled engine.

What is the appeal of leather jackets? Ever since I realized that the answer to this question was condensed into the ``Ryo-bead ZIP style,'' it has become my favorite.








Would you like to toast to the good old tailors?
[Ichijima]