Pattern Making 3
There are various viewpoints regarding the criteria for what is considered good wear.
One of the most important items is “pattern”
This measure is indispensable.
Even in riding wear
A good pattern is easy to move and becomes an important function.
In order to make clothes that are easy to move in, it is advantageous to have a large surface area.
Do not ruin the silhouette or design
A technique is used to transform the pattern.
In the case of a jacket, the ease of movement of the sleeves and the area around the shoulders are important points that make it feel comfortable to wear.
This time, I would like to delve into the shoulder joint that is involved in the movement of the sleeves.
The movement of placing your hands on the steering wheel mainly involves bending your upper arm relative to your trunk (bringing it forward).
Slightly abduct (extend your arms outward).
The scapula forms the shoulder joint with the humerus.
The scapula forms the clavicle and acromioclavicular joint, and makes complex movements along the spine.
When you slowly bend your humerus (pull it forward), your scapula will not move until about 30 degrees.
From there, as you bend your upper arm further, your shoulder blades will begin to rotate.
The scapula rotates in the same way when the humerus abducts (extends the arm to the side).
I think you can understand this by having a third party palpate and move your shoulder blade.
Since the shoulder blade moves in response to the movement of the upper arm, the shoulder joint itself moves while compensating for the movement of the shoulder.
There are rules for this movement of the shoulder blade.
The ratio of the angle of rotation of the scapula to the angle of movement of the upper arm is exactly 2:1.
For example, when the upper arm is bent 90 degrees, the bending angle of the humerus is 60 degrees.
The remaining 30 degrees involve rotation of the scapula.
Because movement is performed by both the shoulder joint and the scapula,
This is called the brachio-scapular rhythm.
In the clothing pattern, narrow back width and lack of sleeve hem
This will impede the movement of the scapula,
It comes to the surface as “wear that is difficult to move in.”
The tighter the fit, the more
It is very important to decide how much yutori to put on which part.
First of all, it must be easy to wear and move around.
This is an important function that helps reduce fatigue during long runs and avoids risks in emergencies.
I would be happy if you could use this as a guide to choosing a good riding jacket.
[Ushizaka]