Japan has been unseasonably warm for the past few days, but it looks like the temperature will continue to drop from the weekend.
So, I would like to write a little about the history of the standard winter model "N-1".
The original design source is, of course, the military jacket "N-1" deck jacket, but this model has been rebuilt as a rider's jacket by changing the specifications of each part.
The leather used for the main body is goat leather, a large-sized leather tanned using Head Factory's original recipe and named ``HF-GOAT.''
When replacing the Jungle Cloth material used in the N-1 Deck Jacket with leather, we first had to decide what kind of leather to use, how to tan it, and how to finish it. The first thing I wanted to keep in mind, while keeping practicality in mind, was to create an atmosphere that didn't deviate from the military worldview, and aim for a natural finish that would look as if it had existed for a long time.
Why is it made of leather in the first place?
This is because KADOYA is a leather jacket manufacturer, but the strength and wind resistance of leather are functional advantages that cannot be ignored as a rider's jacket.
So, what kind of leather should you choose?
Among the many military jackets that exist, the most representative model numbers that use leather are undoubtedly "G-1," "A-2," and "B-3."
It can be said that it is a masterpiece that has gained citizenship so much that you can see people wearing it on the street, and the level of visual perfection is such that it is input into the minds of the viewers as a ``natural shape''.
In other words, it makes more sense to choose a material that matches the design of N-1 from among the materials used in those products, rather than trying to develop materials without any context and blindly creating something strange. I came to the conclusion that if I think about it from a military perspective, it should fit well, then "goat", "horse", "sheep", etc. could only be a goat.
I had always felt that the characteristics of goatskin as a material were suitable for riders, so the timing was perfect and the direction was firmly established.
As for the tanning, I had a rough idea of a combination tanning with a chrome-like finish and a semi-aniline finish, so the first step was to establish a continuous purchasing route for large-sized leather. .
This is because, as you know, there are many parts that make up the main body of GOAT's masterpiece "G-1", especially the back, and basically five parts are combined to form the back. . This includes the presence of action pleats.
On the other hand, the back of the N-1 deck jacket is only one piece of cloth. We believe that this short body and simple appearance is a major feature of the N-1 and one of its charms.
Although it was decided to use goat leather, it was necessary to procure large-sized leather that can finish the entire back without any seams, and in order to put it on the production line as a ready-made product, it had to be procured continuously and stably. This was quite a difficult problem to solve, and the sources that had previously purchased goat leather could not make it happen, so in the end we had no choice but to look for it from tanners.
As a result, an encounter with a certain tanner solved the procurement problem, and Tana Tanabe was even more fortunate that the president and managing director of this tanner were unparalleled bike enthusiasts, and had deep insight and understanding of rider jackets. There was.
This is a quick story.
What we're trying to create, our empathy for it, and what we can and can't do, are often things we can communicate because we're fellow bikers. If you can't share your image, no matter how hard you try, you'll just be in vain.
After many twists and turns, the original material ``HF-GOAT'' was completed.
In parallel with the development of materials, specifications for each part were determined.
While imagining that it would receive cold stares from military fans, it was a drastic change in specifications from the original, and the concept was not a leather version of the N-1, but an HF N-1 and a rider's jacket.
The alpaca lining has been replaced with polyester twill quilting, and a removable acrylic brushed vest is included instead.
One edge of the hand warmer has been changed to a ZIP opening/closing type on both edges, and the ZIP slider has a leather pull.
The chin strap has been changed from a buttonhole to a dot button style.
Added a windbreak to the inside of the placket.
1 sleeve is now 2 sleeves.
The form itself has been completely revised, and the angle of the sleeves is now closer to the riding form.
There are many other changes, but of course there is a reason for all of them.
However, the military atmosphere and the design of the N-1 deck jacket are cherished to the very end, and we pay close attention and respect to the balance between what can be used and what can be destroyed.
It's been 5 years since the release.
“N-1” has now become a standard product, and we hope to be able to deliver at least one item to as many customers as possible this winter.