collar and boa

Regardless of the season, we receive requests for customized boa collars that are constantly delivered to the factory.

There are two types of work involved: creating a boa (mouton, coyote, acrylic) that matches the collar of the jacket brought in, and attaching the jacket around the collar (pressing in buttons).

First, the patterner measures the collar shape of the delivered jacket.

Most jacket collars that can be fitted with a collar boa are shirt collars and similar shapes.
So, a little about making the collar...


Collars are usually made up of two pieces, one that is visible on the front (front-collar) and one that is hidden behind (ji-collar).
These two pieces have different shapes.

The front collar is developed and deformed based on the folding back when it becomes three-dimensional, the difference in inner and outer diameter, etc., and the degree of deformation depends on the design and material. In the case of leather jackets, which often exceed 1 mm in thickness, relatively large operations are required.

Whenever two pieces of leather with different shapes are sewn together, it is not only necessary to have the skill to sew them together precisely, but also to work with your hands imagining the shape of the result.

It is no exception when sewing the collar and front collar.



At the "turning point" that appears immediately after the sewing starts, it will bend at once, about 15 mm in between.
From there, it's a few centimeters straight to the tip of the collar, no need for zero gaps, and it's perfectly flat.
Decelerate as you approach the first curve, "Early", twist the needle movement dial of the sewing machine to change the pitch, and carefully turn.
Returning the pitch, breathing, starting, still part of the collar, no gap here, progress for a while, it's about time,
From the area where the inner and outer diameter difference occurs, pull the ground collar and gently start to shape the front collar, pass through the neck point, continue to shape evenly, pass the back center, evenly and evenly.

That said, the patterns prepared by the pattern maker have marks here and there that indicate stitching, and if you align the points, the pattern is already set up so that you can get the desired shape. Am I the only one who is skeptical about craftsmen and thinks that the two are constantly monitoring (checking) each other to see if the images of me and the designer overlap?

Anyway, the collar consists of two pieces.

Since the detachable collar boa is worn over the collar, it is necessary to create a third shape that is expanded and deformed, so the work begins with the measurement of the collar by the patterner.



Mouton, sheep fur.

It goes without saying that Mouton, which is a particularly popular material for collar boa, has high heat retention.
In addition, there are many other attractive features such as good breathability and high water absorption.

Even in the season when the outside temperature feels warm, the area around the neck, which is directly in contact with the mouton boa attached to the collar, does not feel hot or stuffy (depending on the individual), and contrary to its appearance, it is surprisingly comfortable. You can leave it on for a long time.


Deciding when to remove the collar boa

"Oh, come on, come on, the season when you feel hot around your neck has come! It's time to take off the boa!"

Rather than internal factors such as

"Does it look hot? Take it off..."

Isn't it left and right by the external part, such as appearance?

In extreme terms, mouton is a material that can be used all year round.


Putting aside functionality and silly poop, the collar has such an impact on people's impression that it is said to be part of the face.
It's also fun to put it on when you want to and change the color of the collar boa.
The collar boa, which can be attached or removed depending on your mood, must be a very convenient item.


By the way, the collar of my favorite winter leather jacket has a sewn-in collar that cannot be removed, so it means that the time to remove the boa equals a change of clothes. There is a good place.

As I wrote earlier, in the case of a removable boa, the base collar, front collar, and sheep leather are layered on top of it.
In addition, another piece of leather is needed to cover the boa around the collar, which increases the volume around the collar, resulting in a dignified and masculine impression. If the original jacket doesn't have room around the neck, you may feel a little cramped.

However, the functional aspect of the collar boa is not only the heat retention around the neck, but it also has the meaning of blocking outside air from entering there. It is unlikely that

So, what are the advantages of a sewn-in collar boa?

Let's say it's a familiar goodness that is made without waste.

However, once you know the convenience of the detachable type, the sewn-in type requires some preparation, and to exaggerate, it becomes a situation that can not be avoided, so in the end both have advantages and disadvantages.



Regardless of the season, it is a custom boa retrofit that is constantly delivered.
You can choose from several methods depending on your purpose and preference.

It may be interesting to think about it from there first.




[Ichishima]